Changing the Front Tire on a Ford Tractor

Today on Mike attempts, changing the front tire on a 1955 Ford 860 tractor. This old tire is cracked all over and I want
to replace it before it leaves me stranded. This is my first attempt at
changing a tire so it’ll definitely be a learning process. The front tire on the
other side was replaced right before I got the tractor in 2015 and I got an
exact match for this side. Break loose each nut so they’re easier to remove
once the wheel has been jacked up. Make sure the other tires are blocked and the
tractor is in gear before jacking up the front. Place at least one jack stand
under the frame, just to be safe. Remove all the nuts and you should be
able to just wiggle the wheel off the hub. My rim was painted and a bit rusted
to the hub so I had to spray some penetrating oil in the gaps and whack the
tire with a rubber mallet. Let most of the air out of the tire and then remove
the valve stem core. Now it’s time to break the bead. I sprayed penetrating oil
around the rim and then use a 2×4 wedged under the rear tire
to push down on a small piece of 2×6. Again, make sure you remove
the valve stem core or the air left in the tire will fight against you as
you’re trying to break the bead. I actually stood with both feet on the end
of the 2×4 until… wait… wait… Did you hear that beautiful pop? The bead
finally broke free. Looks easy enough, right? Well I used the word “finally” because there were many failed attempts. C-clamp
and jumping? Nope. 2×4 lever without penetrating oil? Nope. A jack, ratchet strap, and some scrap wood? Nope. Just a jack and a ratchet strap? Nope. A slightly different attempt with the scrap wood? Nope. In defense of these other methods, aside from the c-clamp, I think they all would have worked if I had used
a heavier duty ratchet strap and some penetrating oil. However, if you’re
planning to keep the tire, you might want to use some soapy water instead. Go
around both sides of the tire until it’s completely loose from the rim. It helps
to give it a bit of encouragement with a rubber mallet. To demount the tire,
I used a 30 inch curved tire spoon and an 18 inch drop center tire spoon. Place the
wheel with the outside of the rim facing down so you don’t scratch up the paint
with the spoons. Start with both spoons side by side, pry the tire up and leave
the smaller spoon in place to hold it. Move the longer spoon six to eight
inches over and pry up again, this time I use a screw driver to keep tire up.
Repeat the process all the way around this side of the tire. If your tire has a tube, now’s a good time
to remove it so it doesn’t accidentally get punctured. Start with the valve stem
by pushing it back through the hole in the rim. Then just work your way around, yanking on the tube as you go. Stand on the lip of the rim and use the spoon to
pry up and pop the tire off. The rim is a bit rusty but it’s not as bad as I
thought it would be. I used a wire cup brush to knock off
most of the rust in preparation for painting. I pressure washed the rim and
let it dry before applying some rusty metal primer, followed by a couple coats
of rusty metal gloss enamel. Time to mount the new tire! I chose to use a mild
car wash soap to lube the bead. Again, start with the outside of the rim facing
down to avoid scratches. I thought I was making progress by standing on the rim
as I work my way around with the spoons but I soon realized I was just chasing
my tail. I ended up using the ratchet strap to hold the tire tight to the rim and
that did the trick. The longer spoon kept slipping down and
grabbing both beads so be sure you’re only hooking the top bead. This was a lot
harder to prevent as I got closer to the end so I had to stand the tire up for
the last few inches. My old tube didn’t have any leaks so I reinstalled it by
starting with the valve stem and working it all the way around, down into the rim. For the other bead, flip the tire over
so the outside of the rim is facing up. Stand on the tire to push the bead down
as much as you can and then use the longer spoon to work the rest of the
bead down into the rim. Reinstall the valve stem core and inflate the tube
until both beads are fully seated. Inflate the tire to the recommended
amount, for me it was 20 PSI. I cleaned up the hub a bit and smeared on a little
grease to help prevent the rim from rusting to the hub again. I learned a lot
and if I had to do it again I’m sure it would go a lot faster. However, in hindsight, it would probably be worth every penny if you could find a
local tire shop that would demount the old tire and mount the new one for you.
Install the wheel in reverse order and you’re done! See the description below
for links to the tools I used. Feel free to rate this video, add your comments and
questions below, and subscribe for more!

4 comments on “Changing the Front Tire on a Ford Tractor”

  1. Pam Testi says:

    Exactly the video we were looking for! Thanks for posting this!

  2. Mike attempts says:

    Carlisle 6.00 x 16 Tire: (affiliate*)

    30" Curved Tire Spoon:

    18" Drop Center Tire Spoon:

    Valve Stem Tool: (affiliate*)

    Rubber Mallet: (affiliate*)

    Dewalt Angle Grinder: (affiliate*)

    Crimped Wire Cup Brush: (affiliate*)

    *Purchasing from these affiliate links earns my channel a small commission. Think of it as a tip that doesn't cost you a thing. Thanks for the support!

  3. Steve Rives says:

    Finally! Someone gets to the point and gets it done. Nice video.

  4. Ensign Tate says:

    How much should I tighten the bolts when i re install a front tire tractor? I did it as much as i could by hand and then pushed down a bit more with my foot. is that good?

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