Replacing the Rear Rims on a Ford Tractor

Today on Mike attempts, replacing the rear rims on a ford tractor. When I inherited this tractor in 2015, my dad said he
didn’t know how long this rim would last. I assumed there was a leak in the tube
and calcium chloride had eaten through the rim from the inside. I picked up some
used rims but they’re gonna need a bit of work first. I use a knotted wire cup
brush to clean up the rims and a finer crimped wire cup brush for the inside,
around the loops. Then I slapped on some paint and they’re
looking good. These tires are really heavy so you should definitely drain the
liquid ballast before removing them from the tractor. I replaced the valve cores
a while ago and no fluid came out of this tire, so I assumed most of the ballasts
have leaked out over the years. Whoa, almost lost it there!
My assumption about the amount of remaining ballast was incorrect. Let’s
see how much is left in there. Well, there it is.
Decades of crud was blocking the stem. Between what I collected in buckets and
what spilled into the gravel, I guess there was only about 15 gallons left in
this tire. In one of my previous videos, I use this board lever technique that
worked to break the bead on the front tire. I was sitting on the end of this 2×6, with my feet off the ground, and it soon became clear that this larger tire
was going to require a different approach. After some trial and error
using the jack, this method worked to break the first bead. It’s just two
pieces of wood and a heavy-duty ratchet strap. When jacking, both sides of the
tire are compressed. This didn’t break the bead on either
side but it did open up a gap, and I used my tire spoons to work the bead loose. I then positioned the tire so the
block of wood would press down on that loosened spot on the bead. I still had to
sit on the end of the 2×6, but it eventually broke free. After some more trial and error on the
second bead, this strap only method ended up working. I used the tire spoons to work the first
bead off the rim. Next, remove the old tube. To finish removing the tire, I found it
was easiest with the tire standing up. After hooking the other side of the rim
with a spoon and prying it forward, I was able to lock on some vice grips to hold
the tire back. The smaller drop center tire spoon was
good at getting under the bead and hooking the rim. I vacuumed out the inside of the tire
and cleaned the beads in preparation for mounting on the new rim. The old rim
looks horrible on the outside but the inside doesn’t look too bad at all.
There was a raised weld bead covering this crack but it broke off while
removing the tire. I started remounting the tire with the
valve stem hole facing down and lubed the bead with a mild car wash soap. After getting the first bead on the rim,
I used some wood to prop up the tire so I had room to work in the new tube.
Removing the valve core makes it easier. Once the tube is in, stand-up the tire,
push the valve stem through the hole, and secure it with the threaded plastic ring.
Partially inflate the tube to get out the kinks and help prevent it from
getting pinched while mounting the tire. I lubed up the other bead, inside and out,
and worked it onto the rim. Inflate the tube to seat the bead. Reinstall the center and mount the wheel
back on the tractor. I felt a sense of accomplishment but
also dread – one down, one to go. I won’t be refilling the tubes with
liquid ballast because, in a future video, I’m gonna be installing these. I
used some half inch tubing and a half inch spring hose clamp to drain around
45 gallons from the second tire. Remove the wheel, then the center. Loosen the
first bead using the jack, ratchet strap, wood, and tire spoons and break it free
with the lever. Break the second bead using only the strap. Work the first bead
off the rim. Remove the tube, and pry off the second
bead. Clean up the tire, lube, and remount. Remove the valve core and slap in the
new tube. Partially inflate the tube, lube the
final bead, and work it on to the rim. Seal the bead, install the center, mount the wheel, and you’re done! This was not an easy job but it’s done
and hopefully I’ll never have to do it again. Feel free to rate this video, add
your comments and questions below, and subscribe for more!

One comment on “Replacing the Rear Rims on a Ford Tractor”

  1. Mike attempts says:

    30" Curved Tire Spoon:

    18" Drop Center Tire Spoon:

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    Knotted Wire Cup Brush: (affiliate*)

    Crimped Wire Cup Brush: (affiliate*)

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